I’ve heard about the famous Meltemi wind, an annual wind that blows from the north–known in ancient times as the Etesian winds, but this is the first time I’ve experienced it. It’s a wonderful, cooling wind, but this year, it’s been blowing like crazy for the last five days–it must be blowing at least 25 nauts, gusting to 30 or more. There are several sailing yachts stranded in Plomari harbor, for it’s too dangerous to be at sea. The fisherman are not going out either. The wind has brought the temperature down and drives away the mosquitos, and since we’re in the south, the beaches are calm, so most people are happy about it!

Today, I finally found some odorless mineral spirits! I had  looked in several stores in Athens and found only small bottles that would have lasted me just a few days and they were expensive. I tried to explain to one of the shop owners what I was looking for and he sold me a yellowish fluid in an unmarked bottle that smelled like fish. I was pretty desperate at that point, so I bought it, but it hasn’t been any good.

While swimming this afternoon, a Greek man and I started chatting and I discovered that he’s an artist. It’s a hobby for him,  but he’s had some exhibits. I asked him if he knew of any art stores in the capital of the island, Mytiline, and told him what I’m looking for. He said he’s bought some OMS in Plomari, a hill town on the water, very close to where I’m staying. He told me what to ask for in Greek–nefti–and I was very happy to find it. It was sold in a one liter bottle for less than three euros.

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